How To Remove Rust From Weight Bar
Introduction
This is an offshoot of a more general commodity on how to care for and restore gym equipment.
On older weights you got at a garage auction, the paint might be flaking off, likely with rust growing underneath. If that's the case, don't try to just brush off the flaking areas. Yous'll just go more flaking, and rust but gets worse if whatever is left. You don't want rusty flakes of paint stabbing into your hands.
Classic former Ivanko or York plates, or other rare ones, can be worth restoring for the nostalgia appeal.
Here's how to set up your weights upwardly and make them look similar new.
Outset, Deal With the Rust
Option 1: Brush The Rust Off
Your plates are iron. Nylon and brass are softer than fe, while steel is harder than iron.
That means you're going to scratch up your plates with a stainless steel castor. Effort one of these:
A nice strong-bristle nylon castor might get some minimal rust off, and by the way, yous'll want a nylon brush to keep your olympic bar knurling make clean anyway.
Choice 2: Convert the Rust
Y'all don't take to attempt to castor off the rust! Just castor off the loosest surface rust, and so exercise this…
First, if yous have flaking pigment from severe rust underneath, you'll demand to castor the paint off starting time, using the brushing method equally higher up. Repainting doesn't work expert if the pigment underneath is no longer bonded to the atomic number 26.
One time you have access to the rust, brush off any loose stuff as I mentioned and wipe off the grit. Then use a rust reformer spray that turns the rust into an inert blackness coating that will inhibit rust development. Let it dry then embrace information technology with primer and paint as described further below.
Option iii: Phosphoric Acrid
Anything with phosphoric acid will catechumen the rust. Coke, Pepsi and Dr. Pepper accept it. This is a good not-toxic way to remove rust. Well, arguably all that sugar is toxic, but only if yous gobble it upwards.
Choice 4: Citric Acid Powder (CAP)
Another good acid that's non toxic to work with, and without Coke's viscid sugar getting in the way.
Mix 3oz of CAP per gallon water. Soak for 24 hours.
Cheers to Steve for sharing this method! Here's his result:
Repainting
Before painting, be sure y'all have dealt with the rust first equally instructed above. Yous don't want any rust underneath the paint.
Secondly, paint sticks best to make clean surfaces. If you didn't already treat the surface with a rust reformer, go rid of any oil or dirt on the plates past wiping them down with a rag soaked in a very lite solution of dish soap, and dry out well with a lint-free cloth.
Put down some drop cloths or cardboard. Yous volition brand a mess. Practise it in a well-ventilated area.
Call back nigh spraying on universal bonding primer earlier the pigment itself. The manufacturer of your plates probably didn't do it originally, but wait where that got it. However, they most certainly baked on the paint for maximum hardening, which you won't be doing. (Please don't cook your painted plates in your kitchen oven)
Now, spray paint it! Do one side, wait a mean solar day, flip and do the other side. Go with a nice metallic color that is formulated to piece of work well on metal surfaces.
Here'south what you can expect if you practise a good job:
Video
Joshua Land has a popular video on restoring a collection of weights, including plates, bars and collars:
Effort out one of these methods, and post a link to your results in the comments below!
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Source: https://www.tworepcave.com/2754/breathing-life-back-into-rusty-weight-plates/
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